外眼EYESHENZHEN|Dedication shapes leather master craftsmanship
发表时间:Mon Jan 15 2024 22:52:37 GMT+0800 (中国标准时间)

Video and photos by Xu Shuntian unless otherwise stated
WHILE holding several pieces of time-honored tools in his hand, Thomas Maurice from France, chief leather craftsman at Shenzhen-based fashion brand DISSONA, skillfully cuts a piece of cowhide into the desired shape for handmade leatherware at his workshop.
手握着数件极具历史价值的工具,托马斯·莫里斯在车间里娴熟地将一块牛皮裁剪成完美的形态。托马斯来自法国,目前在总部位于深圳的中国皮具领域高端品牌迪桑娜担任品牌首席皮革工艺大师。

Thomas Maurice from France, chief leather craftsman at Shenzhen-based fashion brand DISSONA, carefully scratches a piece of cowhide in his workshop in the company.
托马斯·莫里斯在迪桑娜的工作间里细致地打磨一块牛皮。
Maurice’s journey from being an apprentice to becoming a master craftsman is primarily attributed to his emphasis on inheriting techniques and his dedication to detail.
莫里斯从一名学徒成长为皮革工艺大师的人生历程,源自于他对技艺传承的珍视和对细节的执着。

Maurice demonstrates his tools.
莫里斯展示自己的工具。
“This is my family’s legacy, it’s like a piece of art to me,” Maurice shared with Shenzhen Daily last week, as he held a tiny hammer with a history of over 100 years, passed down from his great-grandfather. He added, “Even when using old tools, I’m able to create new, trendy and fashionable items.”
“它对我而言是家族的珍宝,就像是一件艺术品一样。”莫里斯在上周接受英文《深圳日报》采访时透露,自己手中的小锤子是从他的曾祖父那里传承下来的,至今已有100多年的历史。他补充道:“即便使用古老的工具,我也能创造出时尚的全新产品。”

A family portrait of Maurice's previous generations taken in 1920. Courtesy of the interviewee.
摄于1920年的一张莫里斯家族长辈的全家福。
Maurice’s great-grandfather was a horse saddle maker in his hometown, and his techniques were later inherited by his grandfather. As a child, the feel of leather at his grandpa’s house and playing with his tools ignited Maurice’s passion for craftsmanship.
莫里斯的曾祖父是法国的马鞍工匠,他的技艺后来由他的祖父传承。年幼时,莫里斯偶然间在祖父家中接触到了一块皮革,并对祖父的工具产生了好奇,由此点燃了他对工匠技艺的热爱。
Between the ages of 19 and 20, Maurice started to systematically learn craftsmanship, attending schools such as Ecole Boudard, a renowned craftsman nurturing school established by Hermès. After graduating, he served at several well-known European luxury brands, including Hermès, Lancel, and Louis Vuitton, for over a decade.
在20岁左右,他开始系统地学习手工技艺,在爱马仕开设的工匠培育学校Ecole Boudard等地深造。毕业后,他先后供职于爱马仕、兰姿、路易威登等欧洲知名奢侈品牌长达十余年时间。

Maurice works at a weaving-themed exhibition at MixC World in Nanshan District on Monday.
1月8日,莫里斯参加迪桑娜在深圳万象天地举办的“织就新序”艺术展。
In 2011, Maurice moved his career to China and joined DISSONA two years later. At DISSONA, he established the first high-end customization workshop for a domestic fashion brand, imparting his saddle stitch and edge paint techniques to young Chinese artisans, ensuring the inheritance and progression of these traditional European techniques in China.
2011年,莫里斯来到中国,并在两年后加入迪桑娜。在迪桑娜,他成立了国内首家皮具高级定制工坊,将马鞍针法、油边法等欧洲传统工艺传授给中国的年轻工匠,使这些传统手艺在中国得以传承和发展。
Maurice’s attention to detail extends to every process and every stitch. This dedication and passion form the foundation of Thomas’ craftsmanship, making him a master craftsman of his generation.
莫里斯对细节的把控贯穿在每一个生产步骤和一针一线的缝制过程中。正是这种专注和热爱奠定了他成为一代工匠大师的坚实基础。

A co-branded key chain by DISSONA and EyeShenzhen.
迪桑娜与EyeShenzhen联名钥匙扣。
Having worked at DISSONA for a decade, Maurice enjoys diverse work, including working on unusual prototypes, interacting with various clients, participating in the brand’s creative exhibitions, encountering new materials, learning different techniques, and meeting various designers.
已在迪桑娜工作十年的他表示,自己喜爱这里的多样化工作,包括研究不寻常的产品原型、与各种客户互动、参加品牌的创意展览、接触新的材料、学习不同的技术,以及与各路设计师进行合作。
In his spare time, Maurice keeps himself as occupied as at work, with hobbies such as cycling, visiting the seaside, as well as hiking and mountaineering.
工作之余,莫里斯也没让自己闲着。骑自行车、海边漫步、徒步旅行和登山等业余爱好填满了他的周末时光。
Maurice also recalled witnessing the gradual rise of Ping An International Finance Center skyscraper from the ground. “I was living right in a front of the construction site. So, I’ve followed the whole process of building. I have been stunned by the rapid construction,” he said.
莫里斯还回忆起自己目睹平安金融中心逐日拔地而起的情景。“当时我就住在工地对面,因此见证了它的整个建筑过程。如此飞快的建设速度着实令我感到吃惊。”他说。
Regarding Shenzhen, a City of Design, he said: “Shenzhen is a migrant city and is home to people from all across China and the world. They have different tastes and visions, and thus, can offer a lot of different perspectives in terms of design.”
谈到深圳这座“设计之都”,莫里斯表示:“作为一座移民城市,深圳吸引了来自中国和世界各地的人。这里的居民拥有不同的品味和见识,这也为深圳的设计领域提供了别样的创意和灵感。”
“Shenzhen is a city with immense opportunities. I hope to continue working here and further develop my craft, collaborating with more designers and exploring more creative ways to work with leather,” Maurice said.
“深圳充满着无限的机遇。我期待着未来能够继续留在这里,不断精进我的手艺,与更多的设计师合作,探索更多关于皮革的创意剪裁方式。”莫里斯说道。
内容来源:EYESHENZHEN、ShenzhenDaily
编辑:刘东博 薛永利
审读:钟旭辉 陈苏雅
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